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Mouthwatering Watermelon

Watermelons are available in many sizes, shapes, and colors. The shapes vary from round to oblong, with colors ranging from light green to almost black. The fruit skin color can be solid, striped, or marbled. The edible portion of the flesh can be yellow, pink, pink-red, bright red, or deep red. An additional choice of seeded vs. seedless is also available.  And don’t forget National Watermelon Day – August 3rd

There’s more to the world of melons than just the cantaloupe and honeydew, but this may not be true for long: many varieties are “on the brink of extinction,” according to cultivator and collector GoldmanThis handsome volume documents unusual types of melon like the Collective Farm Woman (originally from Ukraine) and the serpent-shaped Snake melon with lavish color photos and playful descriptions. Goldman also instructs readers on how to pollinate, grow and harvest these plants; includes a list of commercial sources..” Publishers Weekly

Watermelon is very susceptible to frost damage,  it requires a long growing season with relatively high temperatures. Daytime temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees F and nighttime temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees F are ideal. Select a site with Full Sun , no shade, or minimal shade.

Unknown Artichoke

Artichokes are a not poplar garden crop in most areas, they are , as the expression goes “an acquired taste”. If you have at least 100 frost-free days in your area  you can grow them. The Artichoke is generally grown as a perennial, but can also be grown as an annual. I have been growing a modest amount as for years, they are a tasty and healthy dish when properly prepared.

There are actually two distinct varieties of crops referred to as artichokes. This article deals with Globe Artichokes, as in the illustration above. The other “artichoke”  – Jerusalem Artichoke, is not really an artichoke and not even remotely related to true artichokes. Jerusalem Artichoke, also known as “sun-choke” and casava in some places is actually a type of sunflower or, more correctly, the tuberous roots of a type of sunflower.

It is perennial living from year to year. The edible tubers resemble potatoes but are rough and knobby and have a crisp texture, much like that of water chestnuts.

The Globe Artichoke is closely related to the thistle. The part we eat is from the immature flower bud. If the buds or “globes” are not harvested, six inch bluish thistle-like flower heads develop.

The edible portion of the “globe” is composed of the fleshy bases of the flower bracts and the receptacle to which the bracts are attached, known as the “heart”.

Asparagus for little kids

Asparagus is an easily grown long lived perennial, given proper care – asparagus plants can be productive for over a decade.  But ..  It takes at least two years and sometimes up to three years to establish an asparagus patch.

Planting Asparagus

Plant asparagus in early spring, after the soil has warmed up to about 50 degrees F. There is no advantage to planting the crowns earlier in cold, wet soils. They will not grow until the soil warms and there is danger of the plants being more susceptible to disease if crowns are exposed to cold, wet soils over a prolonged period.

Plant the asparagus where it will not shade the other vegetables and will not be injured when the rest of the garden is tilled.

You can start asparagus from seed, but germination is slow (four weeks or more), and weeds are difficult to control in young seedlings. Plants grown from seed indoors can be transplanted -the following spring -to a permanent location .

It is more advisable to start from “crowns” .  Choose large, one-year-old crowns if possible. They transplant easier, produce plants as vigorous as two-year-old crowns and are less expensive.

Site Selection is critical for asparagus .  Select an area that is free of perennial weeds . Asparagus prefers a loamy soil that is well drained. If possible start to prepare a site 1 year in advance of planting by turning the soil and adding  compist . Check your soil PH , and be sure there is plenty of well rotted organic matter present.

Space asparagus crowns 12 inches to 18 inches apart in the row. When you want more than one row, space rows 4 feet to 6 feet apart.

Traditionally, crowns are planted in a deep trench or furrow. Recent research shows no benefit from planting crowns deeper than 4 inches to 6 inches in the trench. Spread out the fleshy roots at the bottom of the furrow. Lightly cover the crown with soil. Gradually fill in the furrow as shoots emerge. Never completely bury the developing asparagus fern.

Brussel Sprouts

Brussels sprouts,  a hardy, slow-growing vegetable they resemble miniature cabbages . Brussel Sprouts can be grown with fair success in most areas of the country. In mild areas, or where there is deep snow cover, the sprouts may overwinter.

Healthy well cultivated/ maintained plants should produce 50 to 75 heads. In all but the most northern states, and Provinces summers are usually too warm for completely satisfactory production from spring plantings. Plants set out in late spring to early summer grow satisfactorily and mature high-quality sprouts when the fall weather begins to cool.

Planting Transplant in early summer to midsummer . Spring planting is done from late April to early May, with fall plantings done in late June. The seed should be sown in a protected location in peat pots or seed flats, 4 to 5 weeks before transplanting.  {It will takes 90 to 95 days to reach full maturity .}Transplant the seedlings to the permanent garden location when space and time allow; but at least 90 to 100 days before the first frost date for your area. For summer harvest, you must plant transplants of an early, heat-resistant variety in very early spring. Sprouts maturing in hot weather or under dry conditions are more likely to develop bitterness. Fall production is the most practical and rewarding in most parts of the country. Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart in the row, or 24 inches in all directions in beds. Cover seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep and transplant the seedlings when they are about 3 inches tall. Do not allow transplants to become stunted in the flats before transplanting.

Jump Cantalope

Cantaloupe a/k/a  cantalope refers to two varieties of Muskmelon. Both of which are Cucurbits along with watermelons, squash and cucumbers. Like all melons, cantaloupes grow best in sandy, well-aerated, well-watered soil that is free of encroaching weeds.

Cantaloupe are a source of polyphenol antioxidants, which are known to provide health benefits to the cardiovascular  and immune systems. These antioxidants promote the formation of nitric oxide, a key chemical in the prevention of heart attacks.

Planting Canteloupe

Cantaloupe is a warm-season crop and should not be planted until all danger of frost has passed. The ideal climate for growing cantaloupe consists of a long, frost-free season with plenty of sunshine and heat, and relatively low humidity.

Planting should commence in the spring, when the soil temperature is 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Soil should be turned with the previous crop residues buried at least two to three weeks prior to planting. This will allow sufficient time for these residues to decompose.

After the seedlings have developed their third set of leaves they should be thinned to three plants per hill. Remove weeds as they grow, and hoe lightly to avoid disturbing the shallow root system of the plant.

Layer the ground around the plants with Mulch  to cut back on weed growth, increase soil moisture, and keep the soil continuously warm.

Some growers prefer to use transplants from as a way of obtaining early melons. When growing transplants, seed 2 to 4 weeks ahead of transplanting date. Commercial potting mixes work well since the growing medium must be sterile and drain freely. The diameter of transplant containers can range between 1.5 to 4 inches, with 3 inches being optimum for early production.

Many  Gardeners sometimes wonder why the earliest Melon blossoms do not set fruit. The first flowers developing on the vines are male or pollen-bearing flowers. Only the female flowers are capable of developing into fruit.

Watering
Irrigation prior to and after planting should be applied to ensure seed germination and  emergence  Drip irrigation provides the plants with a more uniform application of water, placing it near the root zone and using less water. Drip irrigation also minimizes the amount of foliage and fruit disease compared with overhead irrigation . Drip Irrigation does not interfere with honeybees and subsequent pollination and fertilization. Inexpensive drip systems are available.

For larger plantings – Drip systems can be easily adapted for the injection of fertilizer. This allows plant nutrients to be supplied to the field as needed.

Fertilizing

When setting out transplants, apply a common starter solution such as 20-20-20 . Medium-textured soils (loams) will generally produce higher yields and better quality melons. In all cases the soil must exhibit good internal and surface drainage. Mulching is also recommended to  help control weeds and maintain adequate soil moisture. Studies have shown that plants that are mulched grow faster and healthier than those that are not.

The optimal Soil pH range is 5.5 -7.0. See soil ph for more extensive information.

Pruning

Many cultivars produce excessive vine growth. Pruning the vines is necessary only if the melons are to be trellised, optional otherwise. Pruning is performed to achieve a balance between vine growth and fruit set, it increases fruit weight while reducing the number of undesirable melons.

Melon vines produce a primary stem with many secondary branches [laterals]. A suitable pruning treatment for cantaloupes and muskmelons is to retain the primary stem and one of the first laterals while pruning all additional laterals up to and including the 6 -7th leaf node. All secondary branches after the eighth node can be left unpruned on the plant. This method of pruning permits the vine to be easily trellised either by a net trellis or by using strings and  vine clips.

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