Your Favorite Indoor Plants 2

“I think my most favorite [houseplant] has to be the truly easy-to-grow, even if you forget to water [it] for weeks, snake plant a k a Mother-in-Law’s tongue (Sansevieria trifasciata).” —redbazel

Favorite Indoor Plants 1

Houseplants add color and beauty to any room, but sometimes they can be frustrating to grow. If you’re looking for a low-maintenance or easy-to-grow option, try one of these GardenWeb member favorites.

“Red geraniums are my absolute favorite [indoor plant]s. I have two in my kitchen. They’re cheery, easy to grow and I love the color.” —lynninnewmexico

Vegetable Gardening for Beginners

Vegetables are easy to grow and are very rewarding at harvest time. The most important requirements are sunshine and watering. Other requirements are a loosened soil, some fertilizer, and a little bit of weeding. If you have an area in your yard that gets sunshine most of the day (6-8 hours in summer) then you can have a vegetable garden. The first time you start a new garden requires the most amount of work, but don’t get discouraged, the work you do in the beginning does not have to be done again each year.

The ground that the plants will grow in needs to be loosened up so that the roots of the tender vegetable plants can grow into your soil and make strong, healthy plants. The roots are the only way the plant takes up water and nutrients so you want to make their job easy. Unfortunately, soil found in most yards has become compacted over the years and can be as hard as concrete in summer. Therefore, the best time to dig your garden is early spring when it is moist enough to dig easily but not so wet that the soil is muddy and heavy. The first step is to mark out your spot making sure there are no trees or large shrubs around it with roots that will spread into your garden. Then, remove the grass and create some type of border around the garden to keep it neat and weed free. I also recommend a short fence if you have pets, as the garden can easily be mistaken for a large litter box.

You must dig your soil to loosen the clumps and allow air in, which will allow the roots to breathe (yes, they need air also). The depth that I recommend is at least 12″. It seems like a lot when you are digging but keep in mind that your tomato plants will extend their roots approximately 2 feet down into the soil. I use a large digging fork and involve my whole family but a rototiller makes short work of it. Rakes also help in smoothing the soil out after the digging is done. You should add about 2″ of compost at this point and mix it into the soil well. Do not add too much, 10-20% of the soil should be compost, but no more than that or you will over- fertilize your garden. When it looks like a good place to lie down and take a nap then you are ready to plant. You may also need Lime or Gypsum in your garden to correct the Ph. If you live in an area with lots of rainfall, add lime every year, about 1 pound per 100 sq. feet. If you have low rainfall amounts each year, you may need to add some Gypsum to new gardens to remove some of the salt content. Check with your local garden center for the correct amount.

Pepper Seed Sneeze

Q. What is the best way to start pepper seeds indoors in January? Our indoor temperature stays around 68.

A. You’ll need a warmer location for the germination phase: the top of the refrigerator is a good spot. Once they sprout, you’ll need to move them so they receive plenty of light.

Use a sterile, soilless seed-starting mix and sterile containers.

Moisten the soil, but don’t get it soggy.

Place seeds less than 1/4 inch deep.

Cover the pots with plastic wrap and place in a warm (80-90 degrees F) location. Check daily to make sure the soil is still moist.

As soon as the seeds sprout, remove the plastic and place in a brighter location. Lighting from above — such as fluorescent lighting suspended about two inches above the seedlings — is great. Place on a window sill only if there’s no cold draft; turn seedlings daily to avoid uneven growth. When they get their second set of leaves, transfer the seedlings to larger pots and start fertilizing with a liquid fertilizer mixed at half strength.Pepper seedlings don’t like sitting in water so always be sure your pots or containers have good drainage and don’t let water accumulate in the liners under the pots. After all danger of frost has passed, move the plants outside. Remember to offer them shade for the first week.

Fruit Gardening

Things are never dull when it comes to gardening. Here’s the latest buzz on fruit-related news.

Fruit Varieties

New fruit varieties are very much in the news these days. With the new ‘Shenandoah’ pear, fruit growers in the East will no longer have to worry about fire blight. After several decades of work, plant breeders at the Agricultural Research Service’s Appalachian Fruit Research Station in Kearneysville,W.VA.released ‘Shenandoah.’ Its wonderful flavor is due to the high acid content. The fruits ripen sometime from August through early October in the East, somewhat earlier than the Barlett. What is even more intriguing is that these fruits can be stored for up to four months when proper cold storage is available. Two award-winning varieties introduced by Stark Brothers in 2005 are very unique among brambles. ‘Prime-Jan’ and ‘Prime-Jim’ blackberries are unique among brambles. These are the very first to ever set fruits on the first-year canes as well as on the canes from the previous year. Fruit Pests and Diseases

An insect known as the calico scale seems to be spreading to new parts of the U.S. In September, 2005, Michigan officials reported the pests were found on the Michigan State University campus. This pest attacks pears, all stone fruits, and crabapples as well as numerous other species normally used for ornamental purposes. Previously, this pest was known only in the Northeast and along the Pacific coast.

The Honorable Ninja Gardener (Funny)

A fun vid of the Honorable Ninja Gardener